Question #1:
I am making a necklace with small potato shaped pearls and I'm wondering what beadalon wire to use for this project. The intention is to have the pearls randomly spaced and crimped on each side of each pearl to give them a "suspended" look. The holes in the pearls are VERY small. I'd like the drape to be soft as well. Should I use something like Beadalon 19?
Answer:
I would recommend using Beadalon 49-strand. This is the most flexible beading wire and it will give you a nice, soft drape. Choose the diameter based on the bead hole size. Without seeing your pearls, I'm guessing that .013" or .015" would be your best bet. The satin silver and satin gold Beadalon wires would look beautiful with your pearls.
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Question #2:
"The last few bracelets I have strung on Beadalon 19-strand with 6mm crystal cubes and Bali spacers I have had a problem with the toggle bar and the tip end of the bracelet twisting and not lying flat. At the end of the bracelet, I string the wire through a 2mm crimp bead, a toggle bar, back through the crimp tube then several beads. After pulling the wire tight, the end of the bracelet won’t lie flat. What am I doing wrong? Have I somehow twisted the wire trying to string the wire through too many beads?"
Answer:
"I would recommend switching to Beadalon 49-strand. It's more flexible than 19-strand and will better suit the quality of your crystals and silver beads. Secondly, it sounds like you might be pulling the bracelet too tight. I have had this problem before, too, and it's usually resolved by alleviating some of the tension. You might also try adding a small length of chain to the toggle bar end. This will make it easier to clasp and could help with the twisting up issue. Many people recommend weaving the wire back through the beads. This is mostly helpful if the bracelet breaks - then you don't have to restring the whole thing. It doesn't add longevity, sadly. Perfecting your crimping technique will be where you'll find the durability. "
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Question #3:
What do you recommend for stringing Swarovski crystal beads?
Answer:
Especially because you're using crystals, you'll want to use the thickest diameter that will pass through the beads to reduce the amount of abrasion. (Crystals tend to have sharp edges.) If you're doing straightforward stringing, the best choice would be Beadalon 19-strand. If you're weaving the crystals, then 49-strand would be better; it's more flexible.
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Question #4:
What type and size of thread should I use to bead small turquoise nuggets and coral with small holes?
Answer:
It's difficult to say without seeing your beads, but my guess is that .015" diameter 19-strand Beadalon wire would work well for your gemstones. It's durable and flexible and will provide a good, strong foundation for your design.
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Question #5:
I am making purses with beaded handles and wondered what type of wire you recommend. I would like to use seed beads, but still need the wire to be strong enough to hold the weight of a purse.
Answer:
I enjoy making beaded purse handles, too. I would be reluctant to use seed beads because of the fairly thin diameter of wire required to pass through those tiny holes (.015" or smaller) - unless you're going to use multiple strands of beads. Always use the thickest diameter possible because it will provide more abrasion resistance. I recommend using at least .024" wire, either19-strand or 49-strand, depending on how flexible a handle I'm after.
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Question #6:
What exactly does "Break" mean as it's listed on the Beadalon 19-strand package? The package I have indicates a break of 26 lb. Does that mean it takes 26 pounds of resistance to break the wire? Would that be sufficient for a lanyard/ID holder?
Answer:
We recommend using the thickest wire that will pass through the smallest bead. Badge lanyards tend to be subject to a great deal of daily wear and tear, so it's important to use the strongest wire available. Break strength is the point at which the wire will break. It's important to choose a wire with a break strength high enough to hold the weight of your beads - plus enough to compensate for snagging. Of course, a 26 lb. necklace would certainly be something! Use break strength as a point of reference and don't worry about the units. With lanyards, it's usually abrasion and not break strength that can cause breakage.
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Question #7:
Is there a “rule of thumb” for deciding whether to use wire or cord/thread for beading jewelry? I have been using only wire for bracelets and earrings, but feel that something a little softer in nature would enhance the drape. I like to combine seed beads, semi-precious stones and crystals and metal beads – just about everything! However, when using crystals it seems wire is always recommended. Is there a compromise or perhaps a very durable and strong thread to use?
Answer:
The main reason for using wire with Swarovski crystal is that the sharp edges of these beads create abrasion. To choose a stringing material, think about your construction and how it will effect the stringing material. Be aware of the properties of your stringing material. for example, strands of pearls knotted on silk should be restrung every few years - silk stretches and wears. The use of stranded micro wires has been a terrific solution to beaded jewelry and offers many exceptional advantages over its counterparts. While flexibility and drape can suffer, the strength and reliability that wire provides is often the best method. ConsiderBeadalon 19-strand .010" wire for your lightest/finest pieces for maximum flexibility. For a thread-like alternative, consider DandyLine, an incredibly strong spectra fiber.
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Question #8:
The glass bead package I have recommends using either transite or tiger tail. Can Beadalon 19-strand be substituted?
Answer:
Beadalon 19-strand is a fine choice for stringing glass beads. Tiger Tail is a common name for jewelry wire and was originally made of only three strands. Beadalon beading wires have more strands - and so are stronger and more flexible.
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Question:
I am considering trying to make hair pins with your silver-plated wire, but I haven't ever tried it before. Can you recommend a good diameter/type for stringing pearls and crystals - that will keep its shape enough to stay in hair? (I have visions of the 49 strand being so flexible that it ends up losing its shape.)
Answer:
20-gauge wire holds its shape well and would be a good choice for making the hair pins themselves. Hammer the curve of the hair pin to help it hold its shape. 20-gauge will fit through larger sizes of crystals and pearls. If you want to use smaller beads, you could form the hair pin and then use a smaller wire like 24- or 26 -auge to wrap the beads onto the pins. You're right, any of the Beadalon wires (7-strand, 19-strand or 49-strand) would be more flexible than you'd want for this type of project.
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Question #8:
I’ve tried beading heavy beads on 7-strand and it fell apart. Should I be using the 19- or the 49-strand? What does that mean for flexibility? Also what's the best gauge of wire to use with bali beads and pearls?
Answer:
I would recommend changing to Beadalon 49-strand because the extra flexibility will increase the abrasion resistance of your designs. You might also consider changing to a larger diameter if possible to increase the amount of weight the wire can hold. Article: Choosing the Right Beading Wire
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Question #9:
I've read that Beadalon beading wire is knottable. I am making a lariate with heavy glass beads - can I use Beadalon beading wire instead of silk? Can it be knotted the way that is traditionally done between pearls (or 12mm glass beads and gemstones)?
Answer:
We typically recommend using crimps with Beadalon beading wire but the thinner diameters are knottable. I wouldn't recommend using the thinner diameters with heavy glass beads, however, so that doesn't solve your problem. Have you tried using Beadalon Bead Bumpers? They're small rubber beads that look like knots when placed between beads. Using them in your lariat would allow you to string the beads on heavier, more durable beading wire and you'd still have the appearance of a knotted design.
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Question #10:
I'm having trouble with wire breakage in bracelets I've made using small ( 4mm, 6mm, 8mm) semi-precious stones and silver beads on Beadalon 19-strand, .015-inch diameter. They stretch and break in the wire, not near the clasp/crimp. With daily wear, they stretch and break within a couple months. What have I overlooked? Please advise.
Answer:
"I would recommend using a larger diameter of wire for your bracelets. Since they've broken, I'm guessing that the problem is abrasion. Also, don't skip reaming your beads. A bead reamer is a round file used to eliminate any rough spots on the inside of the holes that might damage the wire. Since Beadalon 19-strand is made of stainless steel, what you're seeing isn't stretching, but untwisting, which can happen under heavy strain. 49-strand has a different internal construction, with 7 bundles of 7 strands twisted together - that doesn't allow untwisting. So moving to 49-strand in the largest possible diameter should prevent your ""stretching"" problem."
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Question #11:
What is the best weight of wire to use for heavier pieces like large coral beads or turquoise?
Answer:
We always recommend using the largest diameter of wire that will pass through the beads' holes. Our thickest wire is .036" diameter Beadalon 49-strand.
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Question #12:
I am using 49-strand wire to make bracelets - they are breaking by the clasp. Why is this? Help!
Answer:
"Bracelets can be tricky; they get so much wear and tear. The first thing to do is to make sure that the bracelet can bend freely. It should be flexible, even if this means that a little bit of wire shows at the end when the bracelet is laying straight. Try bending it in a slight U shape before crimping. Another thing to examine is your crimping technique. There's an animated tutorial at www.beadalon.com that is very easy to follow. You want to make sure you're crimping properly so the crimp will hold firmly - and so the wire isn't getting smashed or nicked on either side of the crimp."