Question #13:
I made a lariat necklace with pearls and Swarovski crystals using the 7-strand .012" . The bottom part of the lariat is not laying straight. Is there anyway to relax the wire? Is there a better material to use for this project?
Answer:
I would recommend using Beadalon 49-strand for your lariat design. 49-strand is much more flexible and offers a better drape than 7-strand. Always use the thickest diameter that will pass through your beads - this is especially important when working with crystals because it provides more abrasion resistance. I'd recommend using at least .018" diameter if possible.
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Question #14:
Help - I've never had a problem with the Beadalon 49-strand .018 wire breaking. Until today. I had a bracelet that broke right in the middle of the bracelet. The wire is frayed. The bracelet has been in daily wear for about six months. What could have caused this? I want to repair the bracelet, but am afraid that it will happen again. Any suggestions?
Answer:
Nine times out of ten, problems like the one you're describing are caused by an abrasive bead that is damaging the wire. Bali silver beads, crystals and hematite beads are particularly notorious for causing problems. The best solutions are to make sure that you ream any beads with abrasive holes and to use the thickest wire that will pass through the bead holes. If possible, change to .024" or even thicker diameter when restringing this bracelet. Bracelets are especially prone to breakage because they receive so much daily wear and tear. I even recommend bending the bracelet in a slight u-shape before crimping to make sure that it is flexible enough to bend freely around the wrist.
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Question #15:
I'd like to start making baby bracelets, but I'm lost in all the jargon about jewelry wire. What break weight should I use? What diameter should I use for 3mm and 4mm beads? How many strands should I use? Can you explain?
Answer:
Check out this article on choosing the right wire for your project. My recommendation to you would be to use 49-strand Beadalon: it's the most flexible wire. This is especially important for bracelets; the flexibility allows them to hold up through daily wear and tear. You also want to choose the thickest wire that will pass through the smallest bead holes. For 3mm and 4mm crystals, that would be .018" or .024". You only need to pass one strand of wire through the beads. Make sure to leave a bit of space at the end so the bracelet remains flexible and isn't too stiff to bend.
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Question #16:
I have used Beadalon 49-strand .018" 26 lb. break wire and the wire seems to be stretching. Does this wire stretch? Is there a step to take before stringing to prevent or minimize stretch? I use the 2-step crimping method and crimps are tight. Please help.
Answer:
Beadalon 49-strand wire is made of fine strands of stainless steel twisted together, it does not stretch. The apperance of wire stretching can come from using beads too large for the diameter of the wire; eventually extra wire shows at the ends. This is actually the twisted strands "relaxing." The best solution is to use a larger, more appropriate diameter of wire. The goal is to fill as much of the bead's hole. Try .024" for general use or even to larger diameters such as .030" or .036" for very heavy or large beads.
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Question #17:
What does "tensile strength" mean? Beadalon 7-strand .018" diameter has a "break" of 20 lbs. (9 kg.) What exactly does this mean? How do you determine what type of line or Beadalon wire to use with what? Is there a chart that helps define what beads to use with a specific wire? Also, I was told that Beadalon is like Tigertail. Can you explain?
Answer:
"This article on ""Choosing the Right Wire"" should help clarify things. The main thing to consider in choosing a wire is the bead hole size. You want the wire to fill as much of the hole as possible. The break strength is the actual amount of weight that it takes to break the wire. As you can imagine, it isn't too much of a factor - most necklaces don't weigh anywhere near 20 lbs. Tigertail is a generic term for stranded wire. It typically refers to stranded wire that's made of 3 wires twisted together. Beadalon wire comes in three styles: 7-strand, 19-strand and49-strand. All Beadalon wires are much more flexible than tigertail because there are more miniature stainless steel wires inside the nylon coating. Beadalon 49-strand is the most flexible of the three: more strands means more flexibility."
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Question #18:
I purchased Beadalon 49-strand and was hoping to solder it into findings. Is that possible or does it have to be crimped? I am trying to create a project with multiple strands that ends in a magnetic clasp.
Answer:
The best option for finishing would be a laser welder. Be aware of a couple issues. In order to do it, the nylon needs to be stripped from the tips of the wire, which can cause unravellling. You would also have to use an extremely good heat sink to keep prevent the nylon coating from melting along the strand - the stainless wire would transfer the heat along the wire for some distance from the actual heat source where you're trying to solder.
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Question #19:
I am looking for stringing material that would be suitable for wind chimes. I use beads to cover the line - monofilament fishing line is just not lasting. The chimes are not heavy - four thin strips of glass about 1/2" x 4-6" with beads plus a hanger on the top - not more than 4-5 oz. altogether. Do you have any suggestions for materials?
Answer:
Monofilament fishing line is actually often designed to break down with prolonged exposure to water and sunlight - helpful for fishing uses in keeping our waterways from getting tangled up with the stuff, but problematic for beading. Beadalon wire is made of twisted strands of stainless steel inside a nylon coating, giving it the strength of steel plus the softness of thread. It would be a good choice for your wind chimes projects. Remember to use the largest diameter that will fit through your beads. Try Beadalon 49-strand .030" wire, and use crimp tubes to attach the strands.
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Question #20:
Which wire should I use for stringing gemstone beads? Also, can you recommend a wire for stringing sterling silver heishi beads? (I don't like the straight look.)
Answer:
There are a number of ways to determine which beading wire is best for your project. For gemstones, it's important to use a very flexible wire like Beadalon 49-strand, which has a very threadlike look when strung. Choose the diameter based on the hole size of the beads. Bright finish .018" is a very popular diameter and will give you good flexibility and strength. The same goes for your sterling silver heishi beads, you'll need a flexible wire of a diameter close to the diameters of the holes in your beads.
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Question #21:
I love making stretchy bracelets. However, I'm concerned about the quality and durability of this type of elastic cord. Is it safe to use stretch bead cord and jewelry cord with Swarovksi crystals cubes and Bali-style spacers to make a bracelet? Will the bracelet be strong enough to withstand a lot of wear or should I stick to using strong 49-strand (.024) wire which requires crimping and clasps? (I love how easy it is to just use stretch elastic.)
Answer:
You are right to be concerned about mixing crystals and Bali silver beads with stretchy beading cord. Stretchy beading cord is best for fun, inexpensive designs using beads that are very smooth inside. When you use stretchy cord, you're trading some longevity for stretchiness. Since crystals and Bali silver can be costly as well as sharp inside, your best bet would be to stick with Beadalon 49-strand. Beadalon wire is much more durable than stretchy cord. To make attaching the crimp/clasp quick and easy, consider EZ-crimp clasps. These crimp clasps fit right onto the end of the wire and you just squeeze them shut. They're very secure and come in sterling silver, so they'd look beautiful with your bracelets.
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Question #22:
I have been working with Beadalon 49-strand, .018 diameter, making mostly 18" necklaces - and by the sounds of it stringing them too tight. But if you leave them loose they look sloppy; how do you correct this? Would Beadalon 49-strand be up to longer necklaces like 32-inch opera length strands? Or will it get twisted and kink the wire? What should I use?
Answer:
By "leaving them loose," we mean that the beads should be able to move just slightly on the wire. On most of my designs, I shoot for around 1/16" of extra wire. If you're using a bead board to string your necklaces, the curved shape allows for a little flexibility when you attach the crimp and clasp. Crimping it while it's in the curved position is better than crimping it while the necklace is laying out straight. When the necklace is laying out straight, the space will show but when it's curved (as it will be when you wear it) the space doesn't show. If there's too much space at the ends, you can use a crimp cover to hide the crimp and extra space. I would definitely recommend using 49-strand for your longer necklaces. It will provide the best flexibility and drape. Use the thickest diameter of wire that will pass through your bead holes, keeping in mind that the ends of the wire will pass twice through the last few beads if you aren't using a clasp.
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Question #23:
I've been using Beadalon 49-strand to make nursing necklaces. The wire has been wearing thin and breaking, even though the stones I am using aren't particularly heavy and I have thoroughly filed any sharp edges down. Do you have any suggestions for preventing this? Try using a thicker diameter of beading wire. It sounds like there is some extra room inside the beads that may be causing abrasion on the wire. It's important for the beads to be able to move freely on the wire so the design can bend, but the wire should fill each of the bead holes as much as possible.
Is it possible to knot 38mm 10# wire?
Answer:
You can knot .38mm diameter Beadalon 49-strand jewelry wire, but I prefer to use crimp beads. The knots do stay secure, but they do not lay flat. I would not recommend knotting between beads, for example. To achieve the look of knots when stringing on beading wire, used Bead Bumpers in between the beads. They will cushion the beads and give the look of knots.
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Question #24:
Can stringing wire be knotted? I would like to create a necklace with several different strands, but leaving spaces (approx 1") between the beads. I would like to have a "cleaner" look - not using a crimp on either side of the beads to fix them to the wire. How else can this be done?
Answer:
Almost any of the thinner diameters of Beadalon 19-strand and 49-strand jewelry wires are knottable, but I wouldn’t recommend it for your particular project. You won't be happy with how the resulting necklace drapes. Instead, I recommend using crimp beads to hold the beads in place - and then hide them with crimp covers. Crimp covers are small silver beads with an opening on one side. You just slip the opening over the crimp bead and then squeeze it closed. It looks like a regular bead and adds a decorative accent to the necklace, hiding the more utilitarian looking crimps.
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Question #25:
I am making magnetic hematite and gemstone wrap-style bracelets. I am stringing on Beadalon 7-strand, (.015), and using small sterling silver crimp beads(1.5x3.0). My bracelets are snapping off, just past the crimp bead. Is the wire not strong enough? What's the problem here?
Answer:
One thing that will help is switching to 49-strand Beadalon wire instead of the 7-strand you're using. 49-strand is much more flexible, so it will accommodate wrapping the bracelet around the wrist several times. Another thing to keep in mind is that the beads will become very tight against each other when it's wrapped around the wrist. This causes abrasion on the wire, especially if the beads have rough holes. Be sure to use a bead reamer to smooth any rough edges. To deal with the tension issue, leave a little space at the ends before adding the crimps. This will allow the beads to slide more freely on the wire. In addition, always use the largest wire that will pass through the beads. This will give added strength to your design. I would suggest using .018" wire with #2 crimp tubes, if possible.
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Question #26:
I have been using Beadalon 49-strand to make necklaces and am running into troubles with the coating completely wearing off and the wire fraying. The necklaces are getting heavy duty, daily wear, including while in the shower and swimming. Is the water eroding the nylon coating?
Answer:
It's probable that the beads are causing abrasion on the wire which is causing the coating to come off. The nylon should not be affected by shower water, body oils, or any other liquid, but it could cause problems if abrasion is occurring and then the wire comes into contact with water. Salt water can cause issues, but only after months of daily contact.
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Question #27:
I am relatively new to beading so I have been checking out a lot of design/pattern books and websites. I have noticed that some call for the use of thread and some for stringing wire. In my opinion some that use thread (almost throughout all the patterns of regular beaded items (not weaved or loomed items)) could just as easily use stringing wire. Is this just a preference call? Does it have to do with the type of bead being strung? Besides stringing delicate items like pearls or weaving seed bead why use thread?
Answer:
You're right - often using thread in stringing projects is simply a matter of preference. It may be a case of "because that's the way we've always done it." Before beading wire was widely available, many people simply used what was handy. Now that there are so many products made specifically for beading, there are a lot more choices and decisions to make. We recommend using thread for weaving and looming projects as you suggested, in addition to embroidery and embellishment designs. We also recommend it for people who have always used thread and prefer to stick with it. Otherwise, beading wire is really the stringing material of choice when it comes to strung jewelry.