Question #43:
What is the difference between tigertail and Beadalon?
Answer:
Tigertail is an industry term that typically refers to stranded wire that's made of three strands or fewer. Beadalon beading wire is much more flexible and comes in three different varieties, 7, 19, and 49-strand. Beadalon beading wire is coated with supple nylon that prevents abrasion of the wire and makes it feel very soft and threadlike - you get the strength of stainless steel and the softness of thread. Article: Choosing the Right Beading Wire
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Question #44:
I’m a beginning beader - the project directions I have call for “art wire” and seed beads to make beaded flowers. I have Beadalon 7-strand, .020” diameter wire. Is this a good fit for “art wire?”
Answer:
I think you're looking for a wire that can hold its shape, like Beadalon's Artistic Wire. It's a permanently colored copper wire, so it's great for wire-wrapping or making wire sculpture. It comes in a variety of diameters, called gauges. The larger the number, the smaller the wire. 32-gauge wire is thinner than 20-gauge wire, for example. The Beadalon 7-strand jewelry wire you have now is used for stringing necklaces and other beaded jewelry designs.
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Question #45:
I have been making badge holders with a Y shape, using nylon coated stainless steel 7-strand, .0 l8". I have run up against breakage problems. Should I be using a different size wire? The metal holder is directly attached to the wire. With daily wear, I need something that will hold up to the constant friction. Any suggestions?
Answer:
"I would recommend changing to a more flexible wire. 49-strand is the most flexible - and will help with the constant wear and tear. You should also use the largest wire diameter that will pass through the smallest bead. If it will work with your beads, I'd recommend at least .024"" diameter. The thicker wire will resist abrasion better. Another tip for badge lanyards is to consider using more than one crimp tube. Pass the wire end through a crimp tube, a few last beads and another crimp tube. This will help spread the tension out a little bit and you won't have to rely on just one crimp."
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Question #46:
I have a wonderful large button with a shank on the back. I would love to use string it in a project, but don't know how to keep the button from rolling. What could solve the flopping?
Answer:
I like to incorporate buttons into my jewelry, too. There are several ways you can do it. One way is to thread the Beadalon jewelry wire through the shank and crimp it in place. Next, thread another piece of wire through the shank and crimp it, too. You're basically making a loop on each side of the shank that prevents the button from rolling. You could also remove the shank and attach a metal bail to the button to hang it as a pendant.
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Question #47:
Can you explain how to use a bead board? I'm confused. I don't quite understand how you know the actual length or size of the necklace in each of the three channels.
Answer:
The bead board serves as a tool to help in the design process. The measurements on it provide a rough guide. The outside channel has measurements to help determine the length of the piece that you want to make. It's a great way to visualize what the design will look like before you spend time stringing - so you can try out a variety of ideas and see what works for you. Starting in the middle and bringing your beads up to the 9" mark on both sides will create an 18" necklace, before the clasp is affixed. Experiment with multi-strand designs by laying out the different strands in the different channels. This will create a layered look - with slightly different lengths.
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Question #48:
What does it mean to ream the beads to smooth out the edges? What tool do I use?
Answer:
A bead reamer is a round file that fits inside a bead hole. There are hand-operated and battery-operated versions. Sometimes beads can have abrasive rough edges, so it's a good idea to file them down with the bead reamer. Pearls often need to be reamed to make the hole large enough for silk cord to pass through.
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Question #49:
I have recently made (and sold) several bracelets using silver beads and Swarovski crystals – but a few of these bracelets have broken. It did not break around the crimp, but a few beads away – the strand just broke. What went wrong?
Answer:
It sounds like your designs are suffering from abrasion. The sharp edges of Swarovski crystal and silver beads can cut into the wire. Stringing designs too tightly can also be a culprit. Consider using a thicker diameter wire - bracelets take a lot of abuse. Also, be sure to use a bead reamer to remove any sharp edges from your silver beads. Try using small spacer beads between the larger beads to reduce abrasion.
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Question #50:
I am stringing a necklace of large, quite heavy Bali beads (about the size of a dime in circumference). Is Beadalon 49-strand, .024" the right choice? Will a 3mm crimp bead be strong enough?
Answer:
Be on the lookout for sharp edges on your Bali beads: be sure to use a bead reamer prior to stringing. A bead's sharp edge can quickly destroy the best wire. We always recommend choosing the largest diameter of wire that will fit comfortably through the smallest holes of your beads. Your crimp beads should be adequate as long as you get a good connection.
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Question #51:
I am making a pearl necklace and I purchased a needle for threading. Is there a special way to thread the needle? When I place the string in the needle like a traditional sewing needle, the needle and thread are too thick to get through the hole of the pearl. Am I doing something wrong?
Answer:
Our wire is constructed of stainless steel with nylon coating. The wire can get wet and the nylon provides addtional protection from corrosion.
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Question #52:
Can I use more than one strand of Beadalon jewelry wire in a single crimp tube or is it only safe to use one wire per crimp?
Answer:
It sounds like you're threading the needle correctly, but you may need to use a smaller needle/thread combination or enlarge the holes on your pearls. Pearls typically have very small holes and most designers use a bead reamer to make those holes larger. A bead reamer is a round file with a very tiny tip that fits inside the bead hole. You can use a reamer to enlarge the hole (filing from both sides of the bead) or to smooth an abrasive hole.
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Question #53:
I am an experienced beader, but I'm just starting to used beading thread. What is the best/easiest way to tie and hide the knots at the ends of the piece? It's hard to tie knots that small and to keep them tight! Any tips?
Answer:
There are several ways to knot beading threads. My favorite way is to use a bead tip. This is a metal clamshell that fits over the knot to hide/protect it and to attach the clasp. To use one, you pass the thread end through the hole in the bead tip, tie a knot (if the thread is very thin, you can knot around a seed bead for more security) then place a drop of GS Hypo Cement on the knot, let it dry and shut the bead tip. You can also use French Wire to cover the portion of the thread that passes through the clasp, then pass the thread end back through the last few beads and tie a knot there. Again, add glue before cutting off any extra thread.
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Question #54:
BeadFix sets very fast! What do you recommend using to unglue things that are accidentally stuck together?
Answer:
Try "debonder" to remove BeadFix. Purchase it at hobby shops - where they sell model car kits, miniatures, and things like that. Apply a very small amount to just the problem area.
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Question #55:
What is the correct wire gauge to use for making bracelets and necklaces with turquoise beads, fresh water pearls, smokey quartz and other gemstones?
Answer:
The highest quality, most flexible wire is Beadalon 49 strand, constructed of 49 tiny strands of stainless steel inside a nylon coating. Choose the diameter based on the bead hole size.
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Question #56:
What are the best ways to finish off ring memory wire once I have my beads in place?
Answer:
There are several ways to finish memory wire ends. One way is to glue a memory wire end cap onto the wire end. Use BeadFix or epoxy glue to attach the end cap, then spot-glue the last few beads together for extra security. Another method is to use round nose pliers to make a loop on the wire end. You can add decorative dangles to the loop if you wish.
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Question #57:
Which glue do you recommend for fixing tumblestones to bell caps for pendant/earrings -BeadFix or GS Hypo Cement? Can you give me any tips on using the glue? I am having great difficulty in trying to hold the bell cap in place waiting for the glue to set.
Answer:
Either BeadFix or GS Hypo Cement will eventually set up on the stones, but too true, it's tricky to hold them in place until then. You could try switching to an thicker glue like E6000; it will stay in place until it has set. GS Hypo is excellent for gluing knots on silk or stretchy cord and watchmakers also use it for setting watch crystals into place. BeadFix is good for gluing memory wire end caps onto the ends of memory wire and for gluing flat cabochons or similar items to a flat surface.
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Question #58:
Can you recommend any books or DVDs on beading techniques?
Answer:
There are a variety of books that include information on techniques like wire weaving and crimping, including a book that I wrote for Beadalon called Sensational Bead Stringing, available from a variety of online sources. We don't currently have a DVD but Beadalon sponsors the new PBS series "Beads, Baubles, and Jewels." Visit www.beadsbaublesandjewels.com for free instructions and to find local stations and airing times.