Question #90:
I make ID badge lanyards and would like to know what wire you recommend. Even using double crimp beads, I have breakage from time to time. Your help is appreciated!
Answer:
Definitely use the largest diameter of wire that will fit through the holes in your beads. Our strongest wire is also the largest: it's .036" diameter Beadalon 49-strand. Use it with #4 crimp tubes. You're doing the right thing by using two crimp tubes. You can pass the wire end through a crimp tube, a few last beads and another crimp tube. This will help spread the tension out a little bit and you won't have to rely on just one crimp. Heavy wear and tear is inevitable on an ID lanyard in daily use. Taking these steps will minimize breakage.
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Question #91:
I am trying to make a watch band and was wondering if there is a way to only crimp the wire at the clasp In effect looping the wire up thru the watch face and back down to the clasp. I have ended up with two wires at the clasp making it four in the crimp. Should I crimp each wire separately? Or should I crimp at both ends of the band of beads? Once at the watch face and once at the clasp?
Answer:
"There are lots of different ways to attach a beaded watchband to a watch face. Crimp one end of the wire to one side of the watch, bead it and crimp to the clasp. Or fold the wire through the watch face loop, bead it and then hold the wire ends together and crimp them to attach the clasp. It sounds like you're using two lengths of wire on each side - you can crimp them all together as long as your crimp tube is large enough."
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Question #92:
I have been using Beadalon 49-strand, 0.018” diam. with 2mm x 2mm sterling crimping tubes or 3mm x 2mm sterling crimping tubes. I am running into problems with the crimp tubes sliding off, taking the outer coating of the wire with it. What am I doing wrong? Is it the size of the crimp tubes?
Answer:
Usually when people have trouble crimping, it's because the crimps are too big for the wire. Try changing to a smaller size crimp or using a larger diameter of wire. The wire should fill as much space inside the crimp as possible.
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Question #93:
Can I double up strands of Beadalon stringing wire inside a single crimp or is it only safe to use one wire per crimp?
Answer:
Go ahead and double up. Just make sure that your crimp tube can accommodate the wire. For example, use a #3 crimp tube for wire diameters between .024" .026". If you are using a .013" diameter wire you would have enough space to put them both through and double back to make the crimp. But using the right crimp, the right wire, and effective crimping technique should be strong enough without doubling up.
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Question #94:
Which crimp tube should I be using? The ones I had were perfect, but when I reordered, the ones I received are too big and will not tighten down on the wire, just slide off after crimping and rounding. I use Beadalon 19-strand .012" to create suncatchers and jewelry. Help!
Answer:
Beadalon #1 crimp tubes should work for this diameter. Invest in the micro crimper tool that is designed for this size crimp tube.
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Question #95:
Can I make a continuous strand necklace with Beadalon?
Answer:
Make a continuous strand with Beadalon wire by threading the wire ends through opposite sides of a crimp tube. I like to use two crimp tubes for extra security, so the end of my necklace would look like this: crimp tube, bead (or beaded section), crimp tube. Crimp the tubes to hold the necklace together and you're all set!
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Question #96:
What material (kind of metal) are crimp tubes made of? Will they rust?
Answer:
Crimp tubes are made of brass and then plated in silver or gold.
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Question #97:
I'm having trouble figuring out what size crimp to use with what wire.
Answer:
Article: Crimp sizes
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Question #98:
The instructions for a bracelet I want to make call for “Fireline 6 lb. test.” I couldn't find it in my local crafts store - what can I substitute?
Answer:
Fireline is a monofilament line that's used for fishing. I would recommend using Dandyline™instead. It's a a super strong thread instead of monofilament. That makes it easier to tie, it works well with a needle and is waterproof and stretch resistant. The .006" diameter Dandyline is the same diameter as the 6# Fireline but has a higher break strength - the .006" diameter Dandyline is 10# test.
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Question #99:
What product would you recommend for stringing the new drilled diamond beads on the market? Would Dandyline™ be suitable since it's strong and abrasion resistant?
Answer:
Yes, Dandyline is very abrasion resistant to withshtand the sharp edges of the beads. You should also knot the Dandyline thread in between for added protection
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Question #100:
How do I cut Dandyline™?
Answer:
Dandyline is tough stuff to cut! There are two methods that we use. I prefer to use a very sharpwire nipper to cut it. One of my colleagues at Beadalon runs the blade of the scissors down the thread to get a clean cut. (You'd think it would fray, but it doesn't!)
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Question #101:
I'm in the middle of beading a bracelet using bugles and .006" 15 lb. Dandyline™ and need to add more thread. But I can't get any of my knots to stay: they keep sliding out. I can't really have a thick knot because I need to continue passing it through the beads. Any instructions or suggestions?
Answer:
When I knot extra length onto Danyline, I use either a square or an overhand knot and then top it off with a drop of GS Hypo Cement to help hold the knot in place. If it works with your design, I'd recommend weaving the extra thread through the pattern before knotting it. Then the beads themselves will help hold the knot. When I'm adding thread to a peyote stitch project, for example, I zig zag through the pattern and then tie the thread ends together. The knot is really just to make me feel more secure because I think the threads would stay in place even without the knot.
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Question #102:
What stringing material would you recommend for bead weaving with glass beads. They aren't very heavy, but do need to be very durable. Would Dandyline™ be a good choice? Does it come in colors? Or can the white Dandyline be dyed without interfering with durability?
Answer:
Dandyline™ is an excellent choice for weaving glass beads. It is super strong and has virtually no stretch. I'm using it for a peyote project right now. Use the thickest diameter that will fit through your bead holes, keeping in mind that it may have to pass through some holes more than once. Sadly, Dandyline is only available in black and white, and it is not receptive to any dye that I know of.
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Question #103:
I am tying knots in Dandyline™ and my knots are slipping. Is it the knot I'm using? Can I use superglue on Dandyline?
Answer:
We don't recommend using superglue on Dandyline because it becomes brittle when dry. GS Hypo Cement is a better choice. Just a drop should help your knots stay in place. A figure-eight knot is a secure way to join two thread ends.
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Question #104:
I just bought Dandyline™ .011 and I can't thread it through my beading needles (# 10, #11 or #12!) with it. The needle threader is no help. What can I do?
Answer:
I'm sure that must be very frustrating - needles are hard enough to thread as it is! Sometimes the needles have slightly different-sized eyes. Try using a different needle of the same type, or you could put a thin blade inside the eye and twist it to make the eye a little larger. It might help. If you're planning to double your thread anyway, try using .006" which would give you a similar break strength and diameter without changing the needle style. If you definitely want to stay with the .011," try a heavy collapsible eye needle instead - it's only a tiny bit larger than the #10 beading needle and a little more flexible. If you want to use a hard beading needle, try a short big eye needle instead. The eye expands in the center to accept nearly any size of thread and it's short and stiff like the hard beading needles so it's easy to handle. If you don't need a stiff needle, you could use any of the flexible beading needles because they all have larger eyes.