Question #105:
I love using Dandyline™ for stringing and knotting pearls, I really prefer it to silk. But how do you cut the thread close to the bead(pearl)? Nothing I have used works very well - scissors, jewelers flush cutters, craft blade. What's your recommendation?
Answer:
DandyLine™ sure is strong. The best method for cutting the cord is to start with something sharp and pull the blade over or under the DandyLine while keeping pressure on the cord. If you are using scissors, make sure they are sharp ones and use one side to pull over the cord to cut it.
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Question #106:
How do I cut Dandyline™? I have tried extra sharp scissors, meat scissors and wire cutters. I cannot make a clean cut. What is the secret?
Answer:
You are right! DandyLine can be difficult to cut. Try using Designer Beading Scissors orDesigner Flush Cutter. This will effortlessly cut the line.
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Question #107:
I would like to copy a bridal veil I saw edged with a single row of silver bugle beads. I'm considering the bright Beadalon 49 strand jewelry wire in the smallest size. I was planning to pre-string the beads, knotting the wire every four or five inches and then zig-zag them onto the edge of the veil. I have lots of sewing and embroidery experience but haven't tried beading before. Any advice?
Answer:
What a beautiful idea. I would recommend using Dandyline™ thread instead of the 49-strand Beadalon wire, though. Dandyline thread will be more flexible and lay more evenly on the veil. It is also super strong, so it will be better than regular sewing thread at withstanding the sharp edges of the bugle beads. As for sewing the beads onto the veil, I'm not too familiar with the process of zig-zagging. When I've added a beaded edge to fabric, I usually thread a few beads at a time, then back-stitch through a bead every so often. Back-stitching forces the next bead to stay right in line with the rest. You may have to experiment to see how many beads will stay in place between back-stitched beads.
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Question #108:
I bought some Ear Wire Beading Hoops and I do not know how to use them. Can you give me some ideas?
Answer:
"You can use beading hoops in a variety of ways. Here are some ideas:
- slide small beads like seed beads or crystals onto the hoop to cover the center portion.
- make beaded dangles to attach to the hoop
- wrap wire and beads around the arms of the hoop
- cover a portion of the hoop with rubber tubing
Remember that you have to leave the end of the wire exposed so it will fit through the ear. To finish the earring, use chain nose pliers to kink the end. Slip this kinked part through the ear and place it through the hole on the other side of the hoop to fasten. "
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Question #109:
Can I use Beadalon wire to make ear wires? Can it safely be worn in the ears?
Answer:
I assume you're referring to Artistic Wire? Beadalon beading wire is very flexible and would be difficult to thread through the ear. ColourCraft is primarily copper wire, but a few sizes and colors are zinc. Because of this, we do not recommend it for use it as an ear wire. Instead, use Colourcraft to make beaded dangles or freeform wire shapes to dangle from ear wires that are more suitable for insertion into the ear. Beadalon carries a range of nickel-free silver-plated and nickel-free gold-plated ear wires.
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Question #110:
Measuring Elasticity™: Is there a rule of thumb about the length of elastic to use? For instance, if I want to make a 7 inch bracelet, how much Elasticity should I cut?
Answer:
In general, cut Elasticity 2" or 3" longer than the target length - to allow for tying the knot in the end. You can place a piece of tape or a stopper bead on one end to prevent the beads from sliding off or just leave it on the spool while you're stringing beads.
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Question #111:
I find it very difficult to tuck my stretch cord knot inside a bead when making a bracelet. Can you use a crimp cover bead over this knot to cover it and give a finished look to the piece?
Answer:
I would be concerned about the metal edges of the crimp cover causing abrasion and breakage but this is an interesting idea worth some experimenting. You'd definitely want to use a larger crimp cover so it doesn't smash the cord on each side of the knot.
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Question #112:
I purchased a spool of Elasticity™ 0.8mm and no matter what I do, I cannot get it to hold a knot. I have followed the instructions on the card, but I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
Answer:
I would recommend stretching the cord as you tie it to create a little bit of tension. Before you cut off any extra cord, place a drop of GS Hypo Cement jeweler's glue on the knot. After the glue dries, if you can tuck the knot inside the closest bead, that will give it some extra staying power.
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Question #113:
I am having trouble tying knots in the cord I've used to make stretchy bracelets. Can you help?
Answer:
Try using a surgeon's knot to tie cord like Elasticity™ and Elonga™. After tying the knot, place a drop of GS Hypo Cement on the knot. Let it dry, then cut off any extra cord.
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Question #114:
I've read your suggestion to tie a knot in a bracelet strung with Elasticity™ so that the knot is concealed in a bead. I'm having trouble doing this with the bracelets I make. They're "woven" on .5mm Elasticity so that in every other row there are four 4mm cubes or triangles in a circle. Then in every other row there are four 6/0 beads in a circle. I've tried surgeon knots, square knots and overhand knots and then put the appropriate glue on. The knots don't hide in a bead as much as I've tried. I weave in the tails, but they eventually start to poke out. I'd love your advice.
Answer:
Your bracelets sound really fun! I see what you mean about hiding the knots. Have you tried using Toho seed beads? They have larger holes than other seed beads of the same size. You might find that it's easier to hide the knots inside them. There are some other ways that you could hide the knots, too, but it would mean changing the design slightly. You could add a larger bead or some other large-hole component like rubber tubing or a sterling slider periodically throughout the design with the last one being used to hide the knot. Or, you could tie the ends and allow a decorative tassel to hang down.
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Question #115:
I'd like to make some foot thongs. I have strung some using flexible wire, but I thought it might be easier to use an elastic stringing matieral - and they'd be more size flexible as well as more comfortable. What would be the best stringing material to use? I'm concerned about durability, especially if they are worn on the beach or around a pool. What can you recommend for finishing? Crimps would damage the elastic, wouldn't they?
Answer:
Those barefoot sandals are a fun beach look! If you want to make stretchy versions, I recommend using the thickest Elasticity™ - 1mm instead of the .5mm - they'll be more durable. Water and sun will both cause some degradation of the cord. (Beadalon does make a water-resistant thread called Dandyline, but it isn't stretchy.) You're right to be concerned about using crimps on elastic cord - we recommend knotting the cord instead and adding a drop of jeweler's cement, such as GS Hypo Cement. Try using a surgeon's knot to tie it off. (instructions: knot)
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Question #116:
We are making stretch beaded bracelets and watches using Beadalon Elasticity. Does heat have any effect on this product? Can they be saely left in the trunk of a car in hot weather? Is Elasticity a good choice in tropical humid climates?
Answer:
We do not have any specifications on heat stress and Elasticity. We know that it has been used in many different climates without problems. I think it should stand up just fine to typical wear and tear in hot weather, but I would not recommend leaving it for extended period in a hot car trunk without testing it first.
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Question #117:
I’ve been using a stretchy cord to make beaded watchbands - people like the no fuss stretch bands. How can I prevent breakage problems? The watches are double strands of stretchy cord strung with metal, glass, and sometimes crystal beads.
Answer:
Crystals can be sharp, so they're really tough on stretchy cord. Start by using the thickest diameter of stretchy cord that will fit through the bead holes. With regular glass and metal beads, use a bead reamer to smooth any rough edges inside the beads, which will prevent abrasion and prolong the life of the piece. I typically use stretchy cord for fun, inexpensive projects - and beading wire for more upscale projects that need the durability.
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Question #118:
Does the number of strands of elastic used in a bracelet have anything to do with its elasticityor how long the bracelet will last as far as breakage is concerned? I have thought that if I use more than one strand (as many that will fit through the holes), then if one strand wears or breaks then the piece will still hold to together.
Answer:
Using multiple strands is not a bad idea as long as all of the strands will fit comfortably through your beads. Don't try to put too many through, however. If the cords are too tight inside the beads you will run into breakage - even if the beads don't have any burrs inside - they can still be rather sharp when the cord gets pinched between them.
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Question #119:
I have been making jewelry for years with Beadalon wire. I now have some friends who would like me to make them elastic braclets and anklets. How do I know how long to cut theElasticity? I want to make bracelets 7" long and anklets 9-10" long.
Answer:
One way is to postpone cutting the Elasticity - string the beads onto the cord while it's still attached to the spool. That way you don't end up wasting extra cord. Or, cut it about 2" longer than the length of the finished piece. That will leave enough cord to tie the knot. Add a drop of GS Hypo Cement to the knot and let it dry before you cut off any extra cord.